1. Seamless (无痕) – The Invisible Bond
- Definition:
Garments knitted in one piece using 3D circular machines (18-24 gauge), then shaped by steam heat-pressing (120-150°C) to fuse layers without stitches. - Suitable Fabrics:
Elastic synthetics (Nylon/Spandex blends ≥85%), MicroModal, Bamboo viscose. - Key Traits:
- Zero seams → Eliminates chafing (ideal for sensitive skin)
- 360° stretch → Unrestricted movement for sports
- Lightweight (0.2-0.5mm thickness)
- Production Flow:
Yarn → 3D knitting → Steam molding → Laser cutting → Quality control

2. Sewn (车缝) – The Strategic Stitch
- Definition:
Cut fabric panels joined by industrial sewing machines using lockstitch (ISO 4915 Type 301) or overlock (Type 504) techniques. - Suitable Fabrics:
Woven cotton, Linen, Heavy knits (>250gsm), Quilted insulation. - Key Traits:
- Reinforced seams → Handles tension at stress points (waistbands/gussets)
- Structured silhouette → Holds shape for tailored loungewear
- Repairable → Damaged seams can be re-stitched
- Production Flow:
Fabric → Cutting → Stitching (flatlock/overlock) → Trimming → Inspection

When to Choose Which
Scenario | Seamless | Sewn |
---|---|---|
High-mobility sports | ✓ (e.g., cycling underwear) | ✗ (seams chafe) |
Heavyweight thermals | ✗ (fails over 300gsm) | ✓ (holds insulation) |
Sensitive skin | ✓ (zero friction) | ✗ (seam ridges irritate) |
Structured loungewear | ✗ (lacks shape retention) | ✓ (princess seams sculpt) |
Coming Next: Anatomy of a Classic Men’s Brief – Sewn Process Exposed
Ever wonder how 12 fabric panels become 1 indestructible brief? Our next Factory Floor Diaryreveals:
- Step-by-Step Journey:
- Precision cutting of cotton interlock panels (back/front/gusset)
- 4-thread overlock stitching (ISO 4915 Type 504) at crotch seam
- Waistband application with dual-needle topstitching
- Elastic bonding via ultrasonic welding (no threads)
- Final inspection under tension simulators
- Critical Machines:
- Juki DDL-9000 lockstitch for flat seams
- Pegasus overlock for stretch zones
- Ultrasonic bonder for tagless finish
Email me at carter@xiyigarments.com to see the assembly line video!
Want a specific detail? Email me at carter@xiyigarments.com like: “How is gusset reinforcement tested?”